SHORTLISTED DESIGNERS /

Sandra Backlund / Sweden
Émilie Beaumont  / Belgium
Peter Bertsch  / Belgium
Mathilde Botfeldt  / Denmark 
Julia Krupp / Germany
Masataka Ohta / Japan
Karin Schoenenberger / Austria
Suzuki Shiori & Emi Sekiguchi / United-Kingdom
Two Tom / France 
Peter Wiesmann / Germany

Fashion story by Estelle Hanania, winner of Festival de Hyères 2006 Photography competition.

 
FASHION JURY /

Christian Lacroix, fashion designer / Paris 
Kim Jones, fashion designer / London
Pascaline Wilhelm, fashion director, Première Vision / Paris
Marie Claude Beaud, director, MUDAM / Luxemburg
Nicola Formichetti, fashion contributor, Dazed & Confused, Another,
Another Man /  London
Armand Hadida, founder & director, L'Éclaireur / Paris
Hidehi IIDA, Diptrics / Tokyo 
Roy Genty, art director, Issey Miyake / Paris
Masoud Golsorkhi, editor & art director, Tank Magazine / London
Caroline issa, publisher and managing director, Tank Magazine / London

 
Sandra Backlund
Sweden

Women's Collection: "The Ink Blot Test"

A graduate of the Beckmans School of Design, Sandra Backlund lives in Stockholm where she has founded her own fashion brand. Starting from the obsessive image of a symmetrical ink blot, representative of the famous Rorschach Test, she improvises her new collection one outfit at a time. She experiments with origamis and pleats of knits and mohair that push the volumetric limits of the material and transform the body through disturbing and original shapes.

Photographed by Estelle Hanania
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Sketch by Sandra Backlund
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Émilie Beaumont
Belgium

Women's Collection: "The Factory"

Following her recognition in Brussel's Fashion Weekend Awards and internships with Alexander McQueen and Véronique Branquinho, Émilie Beaumont is currently finishing her fifth year at La Cambre. Her collection is deeply inspired by the world of work--particularly blue-collar work--and borrows many references from the environment of construction sites. With humour and levity, this typically masculine world is transposed onto feminine clothing. At the same time, Émilie Beaumont succeeds in articulating her own sophisticated, energetic and eccentric means of expression.

Photographed by Estelle Hanania

-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Sketch by Émilie Beaumont
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Peter Bertsch
Belgium

Women's Collection: "Bionic"

Peter Bertsch is a graduate of the Royal Academy of Anvers. In 2006 he gained notoriety through his participation in several major competitions and by editing a fashion magazine entitled +one. His creative world, significantly influenced by the transformations of the artist Matthew Barney, has produced a rather provocative collection which combines synthetic materials (PVC, in reference to plastic surgery) with organic forms (cross sections inspired by orchids). Peter Bertsch's experiments have produced strange creatures, half-plant/half-human, which cause us to reflect upon our desire for a kind of beauty which is ever more sophisticated and agressive.

Photographed by Estelle Hanania
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Sketch by Peter Bertsch
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Mathilde Botfeldt
Denmark

Mixed Collection: "Traces"

After working for several years with Tine M. Jensen, in 2006 Mathilde Botfeldt graduated from the Kolding Designkolen in Denmark. Her collection is built around techniques involving traces or marks. It includes, for example, a pair of shoes with soles that leave footprints which point in the opposite direction. Another piece involves two people whose embrace mixes the stripes of their t-shirts thereby "fixing" a new pattern on their clothing as a visible memory of an ephemeral touch.

Photographed by Estelle Hanania
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Sketch by Mathilde Botfeldt
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Julia Krupp
Germany

Women's Collection: "Dolls"

Julia Krupp is a recent graduate of the University of Hamburg, but she has already reached finalist positions in several major European competitions. Fascinated by the play of light on the delicate "skin" of antique porcelain dolls, she set out to reproduce this effect using a variety of fabrics and veils. The collection also plays with the transposition of toys and their simplified clothing on a human scale or focuses on selected details printed in trompe-l'oeil. The illusion thus produced is both disturbing and seductive.

Photographed by Estelle Hanania

-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Sketch by Julia Krupp
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Masataka Ohta
Japan

Men's Collection: "silentman;

Trained at the Aichi Bunka Special School, Masataka Ohta recently presented the work of his Scak label at Ideal Berlin. The collection which he produced for the Hyères Festival tells a story: the "silent and courageous movement of the human spirit as it confronts a new phase in life". The enigmatic and theatrical outfits act as so many metaphoric representations of the soul's condition. The fashion show is to take place in the joyful and dreamy atmosphere of a poem celebrating the luxuriance of the cloth, the freedom of the printed fabrics and the imagination of new forms.


Photographed by Estelle Hanania
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Sketch by Ohta Masataka
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Karin Schoenenberger
Austria

Women's Collection After graduating from the Royal Academy of Antwerp in 2006, Karin Schoenenberger worked as an intern with Helmut Lang in New York. Her collection is a cross between her native country's traditional dress--the Bregenzerwalderinnen--and the elegant white outfits of the Indian maharajahs of the early 20th century. Elaborating on this surprising combination, she adds contemporary elements usually worn by today's young women: cardigans, sweaters, etc. Through this paradoxical combination, Karin Schoenenberger affirms a spirit which is at once modern, precious and fresh.


Photographed by Estelle Hanania
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Sketch by Karin Schoenenberger
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Shiori Suzuki & Emi Sekiguchi
United Kingdom

Women's Collection: "To Reach the Unreachable"

Both graduates of Central St Martin's School of Arts, Shiori Suzuki and Emi Sekiguchi have been working together since 2005. Their collection, inspired by the Notre Dame cathedral in Paris, bridges the gap between architecture and fashion. The two designers transpose the cathedral's rose windows, lace masonry and stone veils onto the female form. Sophisticated cuts and embroidered details come together into a spectacular vortex of shapes and images.


Photographed by Estelle Hanania
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Sketch by Suzuki Shiori & Emi Sekiguchi
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Two Tom
Japan

Men's Collection

A graduate of the Chardon Savard studio in 2000, Two Tom has been living and working in Paris for the past ten years. Less concerned with fashion design as such, his work focuses more on manipulating conventions of dress. Using second-hand clothes, to which he adds decorations and accessories, Two Tom mockingly questions the nature of masculine beauty. His bitingly humourous collage immerses men into a world which is both "innocent and perverse," childish yet erotic, in which Robin Hood rubs shoulders with the icons of gay porn.


Photographed by Estelle Hanania
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Sketch by Two Tom
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Peter Wiesmann
Germany

Men's Collection

Peter Wiesmann is a graduate of the University of Bremen and was a pupil of the Bless duo. For the Hyères Festival, he explores our special relationship to our everyday clothes, which we remain fond of in spite of age and holes. Here he applies an "haute couture" treatment in order to propel our most banal garments onto the fashion show runway. By using, for example, clever pleats on cotton briefs or expensive material to knit a pair of socks, Wiesmann throws the myth of beauty into a controlled skid.


Photographed by Estelle Hanania
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Sketch by Peter Wiesmann
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
 



Sandra Backlund

Émilie Beaumont

Peter Bertsch

Mathilde Botfeldt

Julia Krupp

Masataka Ohta

Karin Schoenenberger

Shiori Suzuki et Emi Sekiguchi

Two Tom

Peter Wiesmann