Steven Klein

Squash, villa Noailles

Hallucination

Hallucination, a new video work by Steven Klein, offers a panorama of the various fashion series created by the photographer between 2001 and 2010, through which he has painted a portrait of  decadence and decay in America.

Steven Klein, the enfant terrible of fashion photography, always seeks to go against the grain. He is today unquestionably the photographer who most consistently challenges the smooth hegemony with creative resistance. His fashion series in the pages of American and French Vogue create an area of turbulence in the landscape of magazines.

The photographer addresses the breakdown of American society with elaborately staged images, pictures in which colour and light are not deployed as tools of easy seduction. His dark, baroque allegories unfold page after page, embodied by a model who in Klein's work does not simply pose, but acts. The photographer's predilection for the image in movement, narration and performance have led him to collaborate on several occasions with Madonna, Brad Pitt, Bruce Willis and Tom Cruise in what are now cult fashion series for the American magazine W.

Steven Klein studied painting at the Rhode Island School of Design before beginning his career as a photographer in Paris. He works regularly for American Vogue, Vogue Italia and W, and has worked on numerous advertising campaigns, notably for Alexander McQueen, Calvin Klein and Dolce & Gabbana.



Steven Klein, "Home Work", American Vogue, December 2007
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 


Steven Klein, "Wild Couture", Vogue Italia, March 2009
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 


Steven Klein, Lara, "Fiction Noire", Vogue Paris, February 2009
(unpublished)
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Dries Van Noten

Piscine, villa Noailles

Dries Van Noten at the villa Noailles.

President of the jury for the Festival at Hyères, Dries Van Noten has been invited to create an exhibit for the pool room.

A collection of projections envelop the visitor.
Snapshots of life at the villa governed by Madame and Monsieur de Noailles are projected onto all of the surfaces of the surrounding walls in this aquatic sports room. These images, harvested from the archives, both familiar and forgotten, in France and abroad, are contrasted against and compared with images taken from the world belonging to this designer.

The atmosphere and the sounds of fashion shows permeate without relying on the clothes and their restrictions. A glimpse of Dries Van Noten’s passion for the tailoring and the expertise inherent of a craft, and not an art.

The perspectives of Dries, and of the Noailles, move us through both time and these images.

Coproduced by La Galerie des Galeries, Galeries Lafayette Haussmann.


Photo : Philippe Jarrigeon, 2010
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Walter Pfeiffer

Galerie d'actualité, villa Noailles

Walter Pfeiffer (1946) lives and works in Zürich. The exhibition will showcase a mixture of personal and editorial work, highlighting Pfeiffer's amazing work and influence on the recent history of photography.

"Imagine an optical device designed to project--and then to trace--a virtual image of desire onto the plane surface of everyday life. That would be Walter Pfeiffer's libidinal camera lucida. Since the late '60s, beginning in his native Zurich, Pfeiffer has sought (and caught) images of youth and beauty as if on an endless quest, the avocation of entwined hedonism and reportage its own reward. And ours. It's a quest others have pursued before and since: Pfeiffer is heir to photographers such as Wilhelm von Gloeden and Herbert List and the painter Paul Cadmus as well as a contemporary of Larry Clark, Nan Goldin, and Peter Hujar.

Pfeiffer, who at age fifty-six is as mischievous as ever, has been exploring the eroticized territory of the everyday for more than thirty years, and this is where we find many younger photographers working today, most notably Jack Pierson, Wolfgang Tillmans, Terry Richardson, and Ryan McGinley.

Possibly the least well known of all these artists, Walter Pfeiffer remains a central but elusive figure."

Excerpt from a text by Bob Nickas, in ArtForum, June 2003


Walter Pfeiffer, Untitled, 2006. Courtesy Galerie Baumet Sultana, Paris.
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 


Walter Pfeiffer, Untitled, 2006. Courtesy Galerie Baumet Sultana, Paris.
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 


Walter Pfeiffer, Untitled. Courtesy Galerie Baumet Sultana, Paris.
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Emmeline de Mooij & Anne de Vries
Photographic assigment on the shortlisted fashion designers

Tour des Templiers, Old city centre, Hyeres

After participating in the 2009 photography competition, Emmeline de Mooij comes back to Hyeres, with Anne de Vries, photographer with whom she collaborated on Bush Compulsion (with Melanie Bonajo), a photographic series showcased on the occasion of the 2009 Festival edition.

Following in the footsteps of Jeff Riedel, Vava Ribeiro, Estelle Hanania, Jessica Roberts and more recently, Amira Fritz, Emmeline de Mooij and Anne de Vries photograph for the festival the creations of the competing stylists. As well as appearing in the catalogue, these photographs will also be exhibited at the Tour des Templiers.

The images from this commission are currently being created.


Emmeline de Mooij (Delft, 1978) is based in New York and Amsterdam. Her work consists of installations, photographs and performances.
Her work refers to the roaming and panicking human being, living in a world of comfort, always homeless, dragging along the heavy burden of history and in search of meaning and shelter in the big open outside.
She had solo shows in Capricious Space (New York), Steinsland/Berliner (Stockholm), Salone del Mobile (Milan), Tsumori Chisato (Paris), Motive (Amsterdam).
Group shows include: Stedelijk Museum (Amsterdam), Robert Berman (Los Angeles), Art Cologne (Germany), YK3 (Melbourne) Outrageous Look (New York).  
Honors include: Kunsthuis SYB residency (The Netherlands), first prize Selfware competition (Austria).

Her work has been published in The New York Times, Museum Paper, Purple Magazine, Dazed&Confused, GLU magazine, Dagens Nyheter, YKKY, Volkskrant.

Emmeline de Mooij currently lives in New York, she is part of Photo Global, a post-grad residency from The School of Visual Arts, partner school of the Hyeres Festival.
www.emmelinedemooij.com



Anne de Vries is a young artist based in Amsterdam and Berlin, interested in media and new media in general, he mostly works with Photography, but also exhibited: animated GIF, photo installations, video installations and created performances and events which mostly included the making of photography in it.

"In General my work as a directing photographer is the realization of thoughts in reality. By creating staged images with common everyday objects. And removing them from their original context and stylizing it, the artificiality of the mundane gets emphasized."

Anne de Vries (1977, The Hague), a graduate from Gerrit Rietveld Academy, Amsterdam, has exhibited his work internationally, his most recent show was at Foam (Photography in Reverse, 2009-2010, group show). In 2008, de Vries was selected for "Plat(t)form" organized by the Winterthur Museum, Switzerland. In 2007, he published his first book "Metafiction" with vandejong publishers.
www.annedevries.info


Emmeline de Mooij, Melanie Bonajo (with Anne de Vries), Bush Compulsion, 2009
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 


Emmeline de Mooij, Melanie Bonajo (with Anne de Vries), Bush Compulsion, 2009
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 


Emmeline de Mooij, Melanie Bonajo (with Anne de Vries), Bush Compulsion, 2009
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
A Shaded View on Fashion Film (ASVOFF)

Gymnase, villa Noailles

The Fashion Film….

Not so long ago, it was a nascent genre, whose rules were hard to define.

A question rather than an answer.

Today, however, fashion professionals and amateurs are drawn to it in great numbers. Why now?

Because new media, starting with the internet, have constantly questioned the closed circuit of fashion shows.

A Shaded View On Fashion Film (ASVOFF), is a touring festival established around a competition of short films, as well as longer formats, documentaries and installations. This festival, which aims to study the drama, the power, and the personification of fashion on screen, has succeeded in accompanying fashion film to an international level, growing year upon year, from one city to the next…

Following on from Paris, Mexico City, Milan, and Moscow, ASVOFF returns to Hyères for a very special edition:

BEST OF ASVOFF 2009 – The best of fashion short films from the 2009 selection.

NEW – A “risky” tête-à-tête with the singer Róisín Murphy, Mister Pearl in the land of Lacroix…

1 MINUTE LIGHT – A series of commissioned films, lasting one minute, on the topic of “Light”.

(DIM DAM DOM – Based upon an idea by Pascale Cassagnau – Fashion, design and graphic design…a return to the television programme which had it all figured out before us.)

This special edition is also shaped by the scenography of artist Théo Mercier.  Thoroughly fragmented, fiercely undersophisticated, he likens his  work to an "antique salami melting in the sky. Or its opposite."

Curated by Diane Pernet with the assistance of Antoine Asseraf and David Herman, ASVOFF is preparing its third edition — submission deadline is  June 30th 2010.
More info, www.asvoff.com


Dangerous by Antoine Asseraf & Diane Pernet - photo : René Habermacher, 2009
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 


Irene by Eric Smith - photo : Annie Leibovitz, 2008
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 


Gareth Pugh, AW0910 - Ruth Hogben, 2009
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Jean-Paul Lespagnard

Cour des pieds carrés, villa Noailles

Dig on For Victory

In collaboration with Ethan Hayes-Chute

This project is founded upon an experience which occurred during the night of Jean-Paul’s thirtieth birthday, when a witch appeared to him whilst he was walking in the streets of Brussels.

She asked him how he envisioned his future, having achieved one of his greatest dreams (winning an award at the Hyères festival) and on the dawn of his thirtieth year (which he had always thought of as the end/beginning of a voyage).

He replied: “Now I know that I want to pursue a career in fashion.” The witch put her hand in her pocket, took out a handful of seeds, and said to him: “Well then… You will have to dig for your victory.”

He did what she asked and planted the seeds in various places about town.

The plants started to grow, and when he cut them they took to life. They became radiant and happy human-trees.

They danced together and held great discussions on life. They offered to help him in his future endeavours. Jean-Paul set off with his new friends for his workshop, where they started work on his career, his sketches, the organisation of his collections, his business plan… The human-trees were very kind and this collaboration promised to be wonderful...



Jean-Paul Lespagnard, The Believers Project. Photo : Javier Barcala, 2010
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Justin Morin

Pigeonnier, jardin, villa Noailles

Carrie

Four years after his very first solo exhibition, Justin Morin has returned to the villa Noailles and the International Festival of Fashion and Photography at Hyères. On this occasion he has abandoned the embroideries which were responsible for his discovery, in order to create a surprising sculpture. It bears the appearance of a tier, in a similar vein as those adjacent to the stage for the catwalk shows and which seat the spectators. Black in colour, the edges of this absurd stairway carve out a clear cut shape in the leafy décor of the gardens of the villa Noailles. 

Its name, Carrie – borrowed from the film by Brian de Palma –, confers upon this sombre mass a supernatural dimension, which is reinforced by the drip-like treatment of its finish. Decidedly phantasmagoric, this sculpture will certainly find a unique parallel in the beauty queens and all of those who dream of one day rising to the highest level.


Justin Morin, The Secret Science Behind Miracles, collage on paper, (50x65cm), 2010
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Marc Turlan

Summer House, garden, villa Noailles

Summer House

"Summer House is a temporary theatre. It is a theatre with a stage and corridors. Hence it respects the architecture of a theatre, where the walkways serve as both passages and meeting places. A further part of this theatrical architecture are the lewd and chaste caryatids which support the structure, frozen amongst the hieratism of cheap, cut out, glued, and recomposed photographs.

The scene which is played out, is that of fame, of a temporary glory. Stars brought to light from magazines, as if for a party, for vanity. That which is looked at returns this look in a symbolic exchange taken from the world of glossy pages, devised for dreams, for dream wealth, for desire and for sex.

Summer House is a theatre of today, a scathing example of that for which the creativity of artists is always destined, the fleeting commerce of appearance, the costly transaction of gratification."

Marc Turlan


Marc Turlan, Untitled. Photo : John Nollet, 2010
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Ludivine Caillard

Cour des perruches, jardin, villa Noailles

Peace Camp

…there must be roads, or paths at the very least, seas or lakes to where one may transport oneself in peace.
Marcel Mauss,  An essay on the gift: the form and reason of exchange in archaic societies.

Peace Camp is an in situ experience. An approach towards utopia, an open space, animated by freedom, sharing, and exchange. A short-lived occupation, inspired by the protest camps of anti-war activists where, for the duration of a sit-in, the space is invested with the hope of a social and political metamorphosis. The blueprint for an “alternative eldorado” that is conducive to experimentation: an act of civil disobedience through pacifism, a non-violent resistance. A slippage towards a neutral zone, where peace is negotiated, a no man’s land. Peace Camp is a manner of inhabiting the gardens of the villa Noailles."

Ludivine Caillard, January 2010.


Ludivine Caillard, "Walkers above ruins", Peace Camp, 2010
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
René Habermacher

Grids from the future museum of the city of Hyeres, city centre

Spectre

For the 25th anniversary of the festival, photographer René Habermacher will show on the outside gates of the city of Hyères museum a fashion photo series pitting the Villa Noailles with the fashion it has helped create. 

"The spirit of the villa, the phantom of the avant-garde that haunts the villa, that is what I want to capture.  To cross through the villa using its past history, its architecture, its connection to contemporary fashion, together as a whole; to connect the cubist garden and the swimming pool with the current collections of previous fashion participants.

My aim is to elevate the spirit and story of the villa to a mythical series of images and confront the town of Hyères with its heritage - and at the same time make it approachable in a way that is abstract and metaphysical, yet human."
René Habermacher is Swiss-born, Paris-based and Greek at heart, who mixes fashion with art and architecture, photography with illustration.
He worked for publications such as Numéro Paris, Numéro Tokyo, V Magazine, Pop magazine, Vogue Nippon, GQ Japan, Pen Japan and clients including Bvlgari, Chaumet, L'Oréal, Dior, Galeries Lafayette.  
Previous collaborations include Naomi Campbell and Vogue Hellas for the 2004 Athens Olympics,  "It Is What It Is,"  with  Dakis Ioannou's private art collection, and "Beauty 2010" with Kristen McMenamy and make-up mogul Pat Mc Grath. 


René Habermacher, Phantôme de Noailles, 2010
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Marite Mastina & Rolands Peterkops

Fashion show, city centre

MAREUNROL'S was established in 2002 by the fashion designers Marite Mastiņa and Rolands Peterkops (born 1982), creating collections of conceptual design. In 2005 Mareunrol's launched a jeans line focusing on finding and analyzing new solutions for denim design, but in 2006 designers first reached international recognition with their collection “Nightmares”, and since then have been continuing the international path with the success of such collections as “by mareunrols” (2007) and “Private Detective” (2009) (awarded with Hyeres L’Oreal Grand Jury and fashion house 1.2.3. prizes). The brand’s main practice is based in Riga, Latvia.

Their previous collection entitled 'Mareunrol's Private Detective' was heavily influenced by the 'film noir' movie genre, which also laid the foundation for their first fashion short film with the same title.  Created in a stop motion style, this fashion movie was chosen to be part of Diane Pernet's movie festival  AVSOFF. The Private Detective collection has travelled to two prominent fashion competitions in BARCELONA 080 and 24th Hyeres festival of photography and fashion (winning the L'Oreal Grand Prix and 1.2.3 fashion brand awards). Following this success, Private Detective was also exhibited at Arnhem Fashion Biennial 2009.

The new collection which will be showcased at Hyères this year, will be about the supernatural energy, hidden powers… sacred values and also all that is natural at the same time. The inspiration came from the fairy tale about Cinderella and also from semiotics, totems and amulets, mysticism and superstition.



Marite Mastina and Rolands Peterkops, Drawing of Mareunrol's A/W 2010 -2011 collection, 2010
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
Linus Bill

Sautoir, villa Noailles

In 2009, Linus Bill was awarded the Grand Photography Jury Prize at the Hyeres Festival.
This year, Linus comes back to Hyeres with a special project, that will be hosted by the "sautoir", at the villa Noailles.

Linus Bill’s work is compulsive. He photographs everything, all the time: people he knows, people he doesn’t know, interiors, exteriors, living things, objects, snapshots, posed scenes. No predetermined theme or criteria dictates the shot. Bill doesn’t adopt a serial approach. He photographs whatever he likes. Recent photos join the old ones in his archives, which he draws on to put together a set for an exhibition or a publication. These displays of groups of images offer a personal vision that is endlessly renewed – in keeping with the space and the mood of the moment – made up of moments that pleased him, which are presented unencumbered by theoretical discourses long or short. Each image is reproduced on a large scale using serigraphy, a process that endows these shots with a new pictorial character that is unique to each one. Reality as constituted by Linus Bill is a weird, comical and tender puzzle, totally new.

Linus Bill (1982) studied at the University of Arts in Zurich. He lives in Bienne (Switzerland) and since 2006 has exhibited in Hamburg, Zurich and New York.

www.linusbill.com


Linus Bill, Untitled, 2008
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 


Linus Bill, Untitled, 2008
-menu
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 
 



Steven Klein

Dries Van Noten

Walter Pfeiffer

Emmeline de Mooij & Anne de Vries

ASVOFF

Jean-Paul Lespagnard

Justin Morin

Marc Turlan

Ludivine Caillard

René Habermacher

Marite Mastina & Roland Peterkops